The need for some of following tools may vary with your specific installation:
Spacers (if you run out, you can use scraps of laminate)
Pencil, marker, string
Level
Self-Leveling Flooring Compound or Fix-All Compound
Tape Measure
1lb. Hammer
Jamb Saw or Undercut Saw (also called Dovetail Saw)
Clear Plastic Tape (for taping pad)
Utility Knife or Scissors
Liquid Nails (Glue)
Air Brad Nailer and Air Compressor (if installing stairs or molding)
Masonite or 1/8 in. scrap lumber

1. Remove carpet and/or carpet pad. You cannot install laminate over carpet pad as it has too much give to be used as a laminate underlayment.
2. Linoleum, vinyl and ceramic tile (as long as it is even and level and in good condition) can be left, if necessary. You may install over all of these.
3. It is very important to check to determine if the subfloor/concrete is level. To do this, you will need a string, marker, and 3 people. Have one person hold one end of the string in the middle of the floor, tight against the subfloor or concrete. Have another person on the other end of that string hold the string tightly against the subfloor as he/she moves around the floor in a circle, slowly. The third person watches for any areas in the floor where there is a space between the string and the floor. Where there is space, it is indicative of a low spot. Each low spot should be marked with the marker.
4. After determining the low areas, fill them and feather out to meet the rest of the floor. For a few, small uneven areas, you can use a compound such as Fix-All to fill in the low spots. If you have several uneven areas, you can use a Self Leveling Flooring compound that can be purchased in the tile section of your local home improvement center. The Self Leveling Flooring Compound usually comes in a powder that is mixed with water. It is thin enough that it will travel to the low spots in your flooring and create a level surface when dry.
5. Sweep and vacuum the subfloor before any installation.
6. Make sure the laminate you're installing has been acclimated to the room environment for 48 hours.
7. Lay the boards (uninstalled) both directions across the room and determine which way the boards should lie. Most manufacturers recommend having the grain of the wood follow the sunlight from a window. It's really a matter of what you feel looks best in your application.
8. If you're having this installed by a professional, please make sure they read this booklet and watch the installation video for this product to make sure they follow the proper guidelines for installation.
9. Measure the room and divide the measurement by the width of the laminate boards you're installing to determine how many planks it will take to complete the room. If the fractional amount will leave less than a 2 ½ in. piece at the ending row, then you will need to start out with a partial board across your first row. If you do this, both the first and the last row will have a large enough piece that it will be stable.

Old Homestead Floors are made from wood. When Old Homestead flooring is connected, it acts as one piece, expanding and contracting in all four directions with changes in weather, temperature and humidity. Because of this, you must leave a 5/16 in. space, called an expansion joint, around the entire perimeter, under door frames and in any other area where the perimeter of the laminate may come in contact with another surface.

Because the flooring expands when warmer, it is also important to bring your new laminate in the area in which you'll be installing 48 hours prior to installation. This will allow the flooring to acclimate properly.

It is very important to stagger the seams of the laminate by at least 16 inches to ensure stability. Your first plank must be at least 16 in. in length and must be at least 16 in. away from the first joint in the rows both above and below.

When installing the 12mm Old Homestead Floor, you must be mindful of the fact that you are considering three lengths of planks. Make sure you aren't using all small, all medium, or all long planks. It is important to alternate the three sizes, although not in a pre-determined pattern. You will have to look carefully at the rows above to determine which board to use next. The best piece of advice is to make sure you're using all three sizes so you won't end up with a bunch of one size left at the end of the job.
The first row is built by connecting the ends of the boards and cutting them to fit 5/16 in. away from the side walls on each side. The second row is created by hinging, then tapping in the long side, then short side of each plank, working from left to right. You must continually check to make sure your previous row did not come loose while tapping on the following row. Try to think of this as a compacting system, where you square up the row after it's installed before going on to the next row.

To install the first row, start from the left and connect two boards together until you near the end of the row. Then, put a spacer between the wall and the boards (5/16in. expansion space around the entire perimeter). Measure to fit the last board (including the 5/16 in. expansion room) in that row. To install the last board, you will pull it in with a pull bar. Simply place the pull bar on top of the plank so that the small lip goes between the wall and the laminate, with the length laying against the laminate, and tap against the lip that sticks up with a hammer.
Continue the installation as suggested in the below picture, taking care to use all three lengths of the planks if installing the 12mm product.
The staggered joints do not all have to be an exact pattern of lengths. The only requirement is that the starter board is at least 16 in. long and the stagger on each joint is a minimum of at least 16 in. also.

To border a fireplace, you can use an end cap to finish the laminate so that you still maintain a 5/16 in. expansion gap. As the molding we sell will only accommodate a straight edge, you will need to fill jagged edges of brick or rock with a colored filler.

Install the laminate just past the dishwasher, so you won't see the edge of the laminate. Most dishwashers can be raised to accommodate the laminate. Then, put a bead of latex caulking underneath to help seal out moisture.

You can install the laminate completely beneath the oven, or just slightly under it (as described in the dishwasher section). Either way is acceptable.

When using laminate in bathrooms and kitchens, there are some precautions you should take to prevent moisture damage.
Put an 1/8 in. bead of silicone caulking around the perimeter of the room (also around toilet flange, sinks, icemaker inlets, dishwashers, etc.) when you are finished installing the laminate. Set your trim down in that caulking. Use mats in front of tubs and sinks, under dog waters, etc., to prevent spills from sitting on the laminate for a long period of time.
Stairs
If you have an open stairway (no walls on each side), you must have a carpenter do all the finishing.
When installing stairs, there is no need to have an expansion joint. Do not use any padding beneath the laminate on the stairs. The floor will not float. It will be glued or nailed down. Measure and cut the laminate to fit the tread and the riser. Make sure you measure carefully and have the laminate go right against the wall on both sides. Use either glue (liquid nails) or an air brad nailer to secure the laminate to the steps. If using an air brad nailer, nail along the edges, so that the trim will cover the small holes. Install the quarter round on the indent of the step where the tread meets the riser. Glue or air brad nail the stairnose into place at the edge of the stair.

Laminate works well over radiant heat, as long as you turn the heat up gradually. Make sure to maintain normal humidity levels in the room.

Molding and Transition Pieces

You can either pull your existing baseboard and reuse it, put new baseboard down, or you can leave the old baseboard and use quarter round to cover the expansion joint.
When installing baseboard and/or quarter round, it is best to use an air brad nailer as it is fast and makes a professional looking surface. When the floor is finished, simply take out the spacers that held the expansion space and put the baseboard down next to the wall and brad nail it directly into the wall. NEVER NAIL THROUGH THE LAMINATE.
When installing quarter round, you can brad nail it into the baseboard (making sure that it isn't going into the flooring) at a 45 degree angle.

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To install transition pieces, use 5/16 in. expansion space on whatever side of the track the laminate will be. Do not lay pad under the track. Cut the track (also called channel) to fit the transition area. If you are installing over concrete, you will need to use a glue, such as liquid nails, to install the track. If you are installing track on a wood subfloor, simply secure the track with screws. Then, measure the transition area and cut the transition piece to fit. Snap the transition piece down into the preinstalled track.
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Install laminate on both sides, leaving room for the track and the expansion space on both sides. The molding should cover both sides of the laminate.

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Install the track near the carpet edge (see diagram). Install the laminate on the other side, leaving the expansion joint next to the track. Tuck the end of the carpet that goes past the tack strip down under the carpet end cap.

You will need to use a Carpet End Cap in these areas. Just put the track in place in front of the existing door frame. Install the laminate, leaving the expansion joint between the laminate and the track. Snap the molding down into the track.

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Use a reducer when transitioning to vinyl or any other lower surface. Install the track, leaving the expansion joint between that and the laminate and snap the molding down in. You can also us a reducer in reverse if you have the laminate as the low side and another type of flooring (ceramic tile, hardwood, etc.) that is the high side. You'd simply reverse the reducer.

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Please see the section in this guide that covers installation of stairs. Please note, that if you are using a thick pad and the thicker flooring, you may need to put a piece of scrap lumber beneath to raise the track so the molding will engage into the track.

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When using the Noiseblock pad, install the pad 5/16 in. away from the wall (the same distance away from the wall as the laminate). Tape the seams with a water impermeable (plastic) tape. We like to use a clear plastic tape. Do not overlap the seams. Just butt the seams together and tape them where they meet. Only unroll one row at a time and install rows as necessary. This keeps the pad from collecting debris before you are ready to install the rest of the laminate. Do not tape or glue the padding down. It should float freely. Make sure that the blue side of the When using the Noiseblock pad, it doesn't matter which side goes up as the entire pad is a moisture barrier. You can use that pad just as it unrolls.

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You can use colorfill epoxy fill minor chips or scars. First, surround the area to be repaired with masking tape to prevent excess epoxy from getting on the rest of the laminate. Fill the area with the epoxy and let dry. Wipe up the excess with acetone/fingernail polish remover (that contains acetone).

To regularly clean flooring, you can first use a broom, dry swiffer, or vacuum (no beater bars…hard surface tool only). Use white vinegar and water for cleaning (1-3 ratio). Use a well wrung out mop and do not soak the floor. Never use a detergent or cleaning agent with a soapy base as it will leave a sticky residue that will cause streaking. For really sticky messes, you may use Windex and a dry cloth or towel.
Place mats at outside doors to collect dirt and debris. Sharp foreign objects and rocks in shoes may scratch the floor.

Clean up spills as quickly as possible.

Use furniture glides (felt protectors or wide base castors) under heavy furniture, equipment, and furniture with metal legs.

Be careful when moving heavy objects across the room.

Never wax, seal, or polish the floor. It never needs to be sanded or refinished, either.
You can use nail polish remover (acetone) for stubborn spills, such as hair dye, etc.